Georgia Remote Viewing Institute

In a nutshell:

December 30, 2014.

Cylinder 2 is misfiring with abnormal forward/backward shaking. At idle when mostly noticeable, the car shakes excessively. You can even see the engine rock back and forth when looking under the hood. When over 75mph, it would shake really badly. I took it to Tires Plus to have it diagnosed and Eric was the master mechanic. While the diagnosis was going on, I ran a remote viewing session of my optimum trajectory. Results from Tires plus was to replace all fuel injectors and intake manifold gasket. Eric says it's either that or an electrical problem that he doesn't have the equipment to diagnose it with, but the dealership does. If I milked it and kept driving, the catalytic converter will be effected. I ignored it until the Check Engine Light was blinking.

January, 2015

I replaced spark plugs with E3 Diamonds Premium with no result. I didn't want to pay $1100 without knowing exactly what is going on, to prevent misdiagnosis and having to change something else later. The Check Engine light began to blink so I took it to a local garage for a second opinion. They said the work required to fix this was beyond their capability and to take it to the dealership.

February 16, 2015

The blinking got worse and more frequently. I took it he Chrysler dealership and said it was an electrical problem. The Powertrain Computer Module (PCM) wasn't closing the ground circuit. They said that fuel injector #2 and PCM had to be replaced. The estimate was $1100 and $1300 including induction cleaning for the fuel system.

With some help of fellow Remote Viewers, I tasked them a blind target of the primary cause of the misfire on cylinder 2 to help me clue in what the culprit is.

With the help of a mechanic friend, I wanted to look under the upper intake manifold plenum to observe and test the fuel injector #2 that is said to be faulty. Before parts are changed, basic observation, cleaning, and maintenance should come first. In this case, that would include the manifold gaskets and injectors and their surroundings of carbon debris and clogging with brake cleaner. I doubled the recommended dose of Lukas fuel system cleaner. We even observed the spraying of the injectors while cranking the car. Results were negative.

February 21, 2015

Ideas were running dry and was doing RV data analysis from the viewers and my own work on the primary cause. I updated Eric from Tires Plus about what the dealership diagnosed, and the biggest trivia was whether it was true that the only way to have the PCM flashed is at the dealership which I'm unable to do on my own. My next course of action was to change the fuel injector at home, and then have the dealership sell me a PCM and flash the latest software for roughly $800. I had once and hands-on removed and assemble the manifold and injectors, I should be able to do it again at home before I send it in.

I continued to search for another alternative for companies online who can sell me a PCM and discovered several companies from Miami who are infamous for flashing the latest software of the vehicle and ship the PCM to the buyer, but with horrible reviews as if the customer service was a total nightmare to deal with, until I ran into SoloAuto who had 99% positive feedback on their eBay store. That carried confidence for me to trust them, so I bought a flashed PCM for $170. I retreated my car from the dealership and eventually I had both injector and PCM in the car. Results were negative.

What I haven't tried: Checking fuel injector har ness/cables and PCM harness with Digital Volt/Ohm Meter after changing out the PCM to check for any internal problems with the new refurbished PCM. Change manifold

gasket O-rings. Compression Check. Nature of the Issue. UPDATE (3/3/15): After I changed the Fuel injector and PCM, I don't have the shaking at high speeds anymore. I can hit 90mph fine, but everything else is the same. The first thing I did was change all th

e spark plugs to the premium E3 Diamonds. I switched around the ignition coils with no result, the misfire didn't follow the bad spark plug or coil to misfire other cylinders. I plugged in a new ignition coil for #2 and no result.

(12/30/14) Tires Plus for a diagnosis

Resulted to no real answer except to suggest to change all cylinders for $1300. The mechanic "to-go-to guy for diagnostics" said they don't have the proper equipment to diagnose the electrical aspect, but if I just drove it as was, that I'd be risking a flooded/ruined catalytic Converter. I took it to local garage and after what they read as for codes go, he said, "You have to go to the dealership. The job required to fix this is beyond my capabilities here"

Chrysler dealership Diagnosis.

They recommended a new fuel injector #2, Powertrain Computer Module (or PCM), and induction fuel system cleaning will total to $1300 estimate. $1100 without induction cleaning. I asked the mechanic to expand on how he concluded to this. He said "Don't need to do a compression check for an electrical problem. It's an electrical problem because it had a #2 fuel injector code in the PCM, that means the fuel injector is bad, wire's bad, or the PCM is bad. The fuel injector circuited out internally which means that the ground wire and the ASD relay feed wire fused together, and when that happens, it takes out the ground control property of the PCM, thats why you need a new fuel injector and PCM. Because it's an electrical problem, the injector is not spaying fuel and that's causing the misfire. I tested it using a Noid Light, actuated the PCM with scan tool. You test ground circuit to check if it's closing, Check the ASD feed make sure it's 12 volts all the time, PCM circuit to the ground. When you actuate the injector, it closes the ground circuit; you test that with the volt ohm meter. What wasn't normal: The PCM was not closing the ground circuit for the injector."

ACTION

1.) Replacing the Fuel Injector and PCM.

I went home and replaced the fuel injector I bought from the dealership, and bought a refurbished PCM from Solo Auto and they require VIN# and Authorization number for my car (Solo Auto has a 99% positive feedback on eBay which built confidence that there was more trust in them than others in Miami, installed them all myself. I didn't replace manifold gasket O-rings and they looked like in perfect shape, no indents, cracks, etc. I used brake cleaner to wipe off the gunk around every fuel injector. I have video of injector 2 shooting fuel just fine- no stream, a more dispersed spray as it normally should, but then I wondered how well the injector would keep up at high speeds and I couldn't think of any way to test it at high speeds, so I replaced it with Mopar parts from the dealership.

Replacing the PCM: Chrysler cars require you to jack the car up to remove the driver wheel to access the battery to disconnect it form the car while installing new PCM. Results: Nothing changed, the check engine light still blinked the crazy, except that I was able to drive past 75mph without the shaking. Dealership advisor advised that if I tried to fix it myself, it would cost another $125 for any diagnostic or even if I just wanted them to check if the PCM had any internal problems. The advisor also advised that external programing (or "flashing") was not reliable, that he use to be the owner of his own garage and the only way to flash it properly is when the PCM is in the car. (I don't know how true that is, any references or confirmation would help). Speaking of confirmation, I haven't found any internet resources or any mention that the fuel injector circuits will circuit out/fry out by the PCM, as mentioned by the Chrysler advisor.

2.) 3-part induction cleaning

Dealership advisor recommended. I originally thought of buying 1/3 of a 3 part induction fuel system cleaning, the bottle that you put in the fuel tank, a product by a company called 44K. Instead, I doubled the dose of fuel-based Lukas Fuel Cleaner with no result. If I should do the 44k, let me know if it'll make any difference for the misfire/shaking.

MARCH/2015 Conclusion:

After all this, the engine is still misfiring hard, but drives fine. I don't see anything abnormal such as coolant mixed with the oil, or any coolant loss, and I can hear the clicking of the spark plugs firing using the "poor-man's stethoscope" using a flathead screwdriver. If the dealership advisor is correct about the PCM frying my new fuel injector if I drive it, I'd have to avoid driving it at all costs wherever I can avoid the new fuel injector being fried. (Need confirmation about that theory)